The main difference that I am aware of is the diameter of the cable. Most brake cables are 1.5 or 1.6mm in diameter. Most shift cables are 1.1 or 1.2mm, galvanized shifter cables are 1.3mm.
I'm sure that there is a lot of science behind the difference but I'll leave that to someone else.
One major difference in MTB vs road BRAKE cable is the ...
The "cement" used in tire tube patch kits (de)vulcanizes the rubber in the patch and of the tube. Which is a chemical process, usually using sulfur, where the rubbers bond and form a stronger bond than just an adhesive would do.
Rubber cement is just a gooey adhesive. Usually latex with acetone and other chemicals to make it more pliant. You wouldn't want ...
That's not the correct skewer for the wheel. I think you likely are using the rear skewer in the font wheel. Front hubs are typically 100mm between the drop-outs, rear are 130 or 135mm (or even 145mm on some mountain bikes that have stronger through-axle designs).
A truing stand is a tool to speed-up the process. Using one does not stop the operator from doing it wrong.
A good technique can work well enough using a finger pressing lightly on the rim and leaning on the seat stay. Find the high spot, and twiddle the nipples till its less-high. Repeat on other side.
Rim brakes don't work well for me because they move ...
It's safer and way easier just to buy another MissingLink (KMC's name for their master link design) of the same type (pin length) the chain came with, leaving you with an inner link that has one on either end. They're around $2US.
In addition to saving the trouble of getting the pin back in there, there's also the question of the integrity of modern outer ...
If the bike has been hanging rather than sitting with weight on the tyres (and hence damaging the sidewalls), there is a good chance the tyres are still ok.
You can check the tyres by going around and looking for hairline cracks in the rubber and feeling if the rubber is brittle/flaky.
If they look ok then go ahead and inflate them and recheck the ...
There is a mark in the middle of the valve stem as if something has pressed against it:
Given that it was a fresh new tube, it likely means that it had been installed with the valve protruding at a sharp angle from the rim hole. Externally, it will look like this:
This is bad because the air pressure creates additional uneven stress to the rubber around ...
Check that the rim tape (tape or liner that sits in rim bed) is not loose or spinning. I had an identical issue where a brand new tube would be ruined after a 10 minute ride. The rim tape spins on braking and drags the tube with it effectively tearing the tube away from the valve.
If this the culprit, throw the current rim tape away, it can’t be fixed. ...
Yes, some people still patch their tubes
I've worked sales at a bike shop for three years, and patch kits are still one of the most common small items for us to sell. It still makes sense from an money perspective--a patch kit is $2 and can fix 10 tubes, while tubes are $10 dollars each (for good ones, at least).
To start off, the crank arm isn't breaking, it's quite definitely already broken.
As to repairs - this bike seems to be what would commonly be called a 'BSO' (Bicycle shaped object). I definitely wouldn't spend anything trying to repair it, and would look to spend the money on a replacement.
They are both types of rubber cement but not the same
MSDS will tell you a lot
One difference is tire uses a mainly naphtha as a solvent and the elmers does not.
Looked up a couple other vulcanizing fluids and the commonality is the use naphtha as a solvent. According to this link naphtha is also rubber solvent. A bicycle tube ...
"Ghost ride": Borrow a good bike (if needed). Ride on the good bike, while pulling the incomplete one alongside you by holding its stem. Your secondary hand sits on the second bike's stem and pulls it along as you ride slowly.
It may sound silly, but I had to do it once and I was impressed with how well it worked. One way to look at it: it's not ...
It's doable although it doesn't make sense from a cost perspective. Only do it if you have an emotional investment in the bike or want a fun project that will teach you a lot about bike mechanics.
To give you an idea, I bought a 1975 Peugeot UO18 Mixte (a woman's road bike, perhaps similar to your mom's) that had been stored in a barn and turned it into my ...
"Nothing is so broken you cannot make it worse" - breaking a perfectly good chain in the field, miles from nowhere, with a light weight emergency tool, would be my very last resort.
This will only work if the broken end is not too frayed. Remove the cable completely from the outers and the shifter. Thread the cable though the barrel adjuster on the ...
If the nuts are rounded they're stuffed. You want to remove the nuts but not damage other things, like axles.
I'll assume you're talking about axle nuts, but the same ideas apply to all nuts, bolts, and even screws to some extent.
So your nuts look something like this:
Clean the flats up with a file. Use a medium flat file and smooth off the lumps of ...
Bicycles cost money to maintain. Even if you do all your own mechanic work, you still need to purchase parts. That being said, more expensive bikes are generally more expensive to maintain at the level you bought them at.
By this I mean you can purchase a replacement derailleur (of roughly the same quality) for a $250 for perhaps $10 to $20. If you had ...
That video is of a relatively supple tire going on easy. It's pretty blasé about the difficulties that can be encountered. He does end at the valve, which is good because advice to do the contrary is one of the most parroted falsehoods in cycling, but he doesn't talk about why.
There is a universal truth of difficult clincher tire mounting situations, and ...
Only the manufacturer or a competent frame repair person can tell you of it is safe. It does not look just cosmetic to me, but I have no qualification whatsoever.
However, this small damage is very likely to be well repairable. Just ask a competent bikeshop or a dedicated carbon frame repair workshop.
That's a pinhead security fastener. You should have got a key to match with the bike. Without the matching key number you can't get a replacement key either.
Here's a picture of a pinhead key fom about 2010. Yours will look at bit different. The key number is under the red blob, and the pins to mate with the nut are in the silver bit on the right. As you ...
Looking at manufacturers site I found repair kit with 'mysterious' blue mesh listed as "Cartridge freeze protector".
It is supposed to be put over the cartridge (like in this picture) to prevent skin irritation/burn because CO2 gets very cold when discharged.
This kind of failure is basically the reason sticker-type patches have a reputation for not being reliable.
Scrupulously sanding the area and getting it as clean as possible (ie, with alcohol or other residue-free solvent, cleaner than anyone can probably get it on the side of the road) wards off the problem but doesn't eliminate it.
Sticker type patches ...
This is how I did it once:
Needed three straps. Two of them where used to improvise shoulder straps so I carried the bike simulating a backpack. The third strap was to stabilize the handlebar so it and the fork where fixed in one position and not swinging uncontrollably.
If I were to do it again, I'd prepare myself to remove pedals and carry a thick blanket ...
That's a very hard area to patch properly (if its even possible), and I'd recommend putting a new tube in instead of trying to patch it. .
I'd also check that the rim tape on the rim is intact and in good condition, cause otherwise if its busted, you're going to get another cut. Also, as pointed out by ChrisH in the comments, rough edges on the rim hole ...
This article titled, How to Get the Pin Back Into a Bike Chain, will give you a step by step guide on how to put the pin back in a bike chain.
Edit: I'm copying the article just in case the link ever becomes broken (no pun intended). The information below is from felixarizona.com
Edit 2: I removed the content that can be found here for possible copyright ...
You have to remove the wheel to replace the tube. A repair can be done in the frame.
On older bikes without quick release, and with current gear hubs, electric hubs, Nuvinci hubs, belts etc, you need a spanner and oftentimes, the gear adjustment goes back different and needs fiddling with.
This reduces the advantage of tube changes. A fix is only 3 mins.
Using WD40 on a headset should not cause it to loosen. Something else is wrong. You need to find out what that is.
First - don't ride the bicycle until the problem is identified and fixed. Doing so might be dangerous - both to you and anyone near, as you may lose control.
If your bicycle has a new-style "threadless" headset, the stem bolts may be ...
Unless the cost of a new wheel that's suitable for you plus any other repairs the bike might need is greater than what the bike is worth to you, than the answer by far is get a new wheel.
Folks in your weight range who ride a lot tend to need an especially strong and reliable aftermarket wheel. The stock advice is to get a handbuilt one. The reason for ...
The chainstay has been crimped (at the time of manufacture) to provide extra clearance for the chain rings. On some bikes, I’ve seen this clearance provided by having the bottom-bracket end of the chainstay be a solid plate (thinner than the chainstay tube).
The bike almost certainly came with a multi-gear crankset when new.
If your question is, "Can an amateur successfully true a wheel on their first try?", the answer is "Yes".
A quick search on the internet reveals plenty of videos explaining the process.
Some things to consider:
Make sure you fully understand the process before you start
Don't use excessive force and take your time
Use a spoke wrench
Make small adjustments ...