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Made in Luxembourg, just seen one with original sticker


To answer the question as written: For many people, the groove or hole does not serve any practical purpose. Because the hole takes space, the middle part of the saddle has to be wider so that there is still enough surface area to sit on. This can be a fit problem. The hole's edges go pretty much against the part of your anatomy where you don't want any ...


Shimano does not offer a tool to service the brake-bearings. Maybe it helps to see how i fixed the problem:


The primary consideration in finding a saddle is how well it suits your sit bone shape and groin tissue. Some people do best with saddles that have massive cutouts (heck, even those ones that look U shaped because the nose is split too), while others can use Fiziks or the like that are rounded without any cutout whatsoever. Cutouts can be disadvantageous as ...


Saddles are the most personal contact point on the bike. If you prefer a cutout, or specifically don't like cutouts, then you have the option of either. Gender and differences come into it as well, there may be body shapes that suit one style over another. While saddle width can be inferred from sit-bone width, noone can really advise what shape of saddle ...


I'm aware of ~5 options. JTEK barend shifter for drop bars MicroSHIFT brifter again for drop bars Create some kind of stub shaft for your shifter to secure onto. This was common for Rolhoff shifters. 3D Printing might be a good solution here. File and grind till it fits. Example from This would ...


Here's the 2012 Allez lineup: I don't see a ladies Allez in the catalog. For 2012 it does not look like the right decal scheme.


The frame and wheels do look like the Specialized Allez Sport as shown on Specialized’s website (just with a slightly different paint job): The one in the link has a cheap Shimano Sora groupset.


Since it's new the ideal thing would be make whoever you bought it from fix it. When this problem happens on a bike where wear or muck isn't a factor, usually what's going on is there's one particular area on the offending chainring that's been bent, distorted, gouged up, and/or poorly formed, and that's where the chain is catching. In many cases that area ...


I found a small cork and put it in the hole and this seems to be working. I can easily get it out using a pair of needle nosed pliers and by turning it (like I was removing a screw). Good luck!

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