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31

The only safe answer is to buy a bigger bike frame. When your adaptor fails, you will descend rapidly onto the rear wheel. The remaining original seatpost has an excellent chance of tearing your chest open, and impaling your head up through the jawbone. While this is definitely creative, its absolutely not the right answer. Buy a bigger bike frame. If you'...


26

None of the above techniques worked for me. I made no impression on the corrugated cardboard and the foil just showed a nice big bum-print after sitting a few different surfaces. I came up with my own technique that's a bit more trial and error but seemed to work for me. I got two small erasers, put them on a chair, sat on them and moved them around until ...


22

I know this is an old thread but it's the top one on Google and I found it helpful. I tried all the methods above and I didn't have a lot of luck so I wanted to share what I tried. I made some playdough using the first no cook recipe I found on Google (it was fun and doesn't take long). I then put it between two pieces of cling film and pressed it to about ...


20

By breaking in your Brooks B17 etc. leather saddle, you create the "valleys" in the leather for your sitbones and the crotch area of the pelvis bone. Therefore you need enough time for the leather to deform at these three areas. There is various information on the net. My experience is that about 500km of riding (so about 25h at 20 km/h) gives a good enough ...


17

Saddle height for new bike setup purposes should always be set relative to the pedal, not the BB center or any other reference point. So yes, crank length makes a difference. Using the ground or BB center as a reference point is convenient for re-establishing a given height after the post has been moved, but not for setting up one bike to have the same leg ...


16

There is a lot of complete and utter non-sense around Brooks saddles. When it comes to saddles, everything works for somebody and nothing works for everybody. Rule #1. If it's not reasonably comfortable on Day 1, it will never be comfortable. Saddle comfort is about getting the right shape to match your backside, leather saddles like the Brooks will ...


13

You should ride whatever you find comfortable. If the old saddle was good, swap it to the new bike. If you intend on riding both bikes, keep eyes open for a second saddle of the same brand/model. You can store or sell the original saddle. Saddles are a personal thing, noone can tell you what will be comfortable. Since you call the narrow saddle ...


12

In my experience (week long camping / bike touring trips), I have never thought "Man, I wish I had a chair." I have often thought, "I have packed way too much stuff." There are a few things to consider. You have looked into weight and cost, but there is also space and time considerations. Volume: Do you have space on your rack to put this? How small does ...


12

Almost all saddles will be exchangeable -- there are a few rare (and very expensive ones) you wouldn't encounter unless you were looking for them which can't be exchanged. So yes, almost surely if you buy a new saddle you can use it on another bike. Note that some saddles are marketed as "road" or "mtb" - the mtb ones are possibly more durable, but this ...


12

You use the front bolt to set the angle first, then torque the rear bolt. Sometimes a few times to get it right. The front bolt is adjusted with the thumbdial or a lever put into one of the holes in the thumbdial (eg 2.5mm allen key) when the rear bolt is fully slack. Hopefully it won't have blue loctite on it but if it does, you should remove it and replace ...


11

The first ride gives almost everybody soreness. You should be using your sit bones with your saddle. You can roughly measure this at home. A too narrow or too wide saddle may give some pain (note this is not the same thing as soreness). Also, you may want to invest in padded bike shorts. Those help some people.


11

I seem to have "fixed" this problem by raising it some. However, that got me thinking... what would happen if I raised it even more so that my legs would be straight (not bent at the knee) when the pedal was at the bottom? Would this give me increased power? Would this give me increased power? Saddle height is a well known as an important factor for power ...


10

I ride a pro racer XL BMX. They are built for speed. I keep my seat down for 2 reasons. all my pedaling is done standing up -- power is everything for a racer. My saddle is made of one material only -- composite material -- its like sitting on a steel plate. I only use it to coast on and relax -- and that is only after the race. However, If I have ...


10

Here's a link to a video that may help you: In this technique all you need is a piece of corrugated cardboard and some chalk.


10

The obvious answer would be to get some Cycling Jeans, i.e. jeans specifically designed for cycling in. These have reinforcement and stretch in the right places and often have other features such as deep pockets, a loop to carry a small lock and reflective strips. Levi, Rapha, Muxu and Swrve all make cycling jeans, so there's a fair amount of choice.


10

Most seat posts have a "minimum" insert of 3 to 4 inches. But this varies with the material and the thickness of the post, and the weight of the rider means the minimum might still be too little. As a tall rider I frequently have my seatposts up to maximum, and have bent several over time, and have fractured one frame. Now I always buy a 450 mm or 500 mm ...


10

Looks like the new one has the same kind of saddle rails so you can remove the attachment from it and try the bare saddle rails in the suspension seatpost. It should work! Undo the two big black nuts and it should all fall off. Edit (Grigory, Criggie): The extra bits are just the clamp from an older design of seat post. So they’re not needed, but might be ...


10

You need to use high tensile bolts for high tensile positions like this. A class 8.8 bolt (metric) or grade 8 (US) or higher is appropriate. Cheese-grade steel from the local discount hardware store is not up to the task. US Grade 8 head marking. These have a min yield strength of 130,000 PSI. (900 MPa) Metric Class 8.8 head marking, with a min yield ...


10

I would suggest cutting off the extra threads. If you have access to a Dremel or similar tool it wouldn't be too difficult. Doing it with a hacksaw could be a real pain. Alternatively you could check your local hardware store for acorn nuts. The smooth ends should cover the threads which is likely doing the most of the damage.


9

I bought a bike last year and after a few rides, I found the saddle very painful. I resisted on riding it, assuming that I'll get used to it, but it never happened, and I was even concerned that I haven't got the right size of a bike. However I got a silicon gel saddle cover and since then the pain stopped. I didn't need cycling shorts or pants either. ...


9

The short (pun intended) answer is "yes." Or at the very least, "probably yes." One of the big things that makes saddles uncomfortable is pressure on the soft tissues between your "sit bones" (the ischial tuberosities). It may seem counterintuitive, but padded saddles can make this worse. The problem is that the padding allows your sit bones to sink into the ...


9

I'd perhaps look at your saddle again. Padding isn't everything and there is a lot to be said for fit/sit bone width. Consider getting measured/fitted. I know what width fits me in the brand I buy. Personally, I think every serious cyclist should know their saddle size as well as their frame sizing. Keep in mind that all your riding up to this point (...


9

The logo says "CODA" which appears to be a name applied to some Cannondale components. They have cranks and saddles branded as CODA. Note that there's a Jamis model called a Coda - that's different again.


9

tl;dr: Yes, you can pretty much buy any seat except some rare/expensive racing or classic leather seats. Explanation: As long as your seat attaches by two parallel rails that are 44mm apart (which is 95% of seats), then you can replace it with another seat that also attaches by the rails. In case you don't do metric, 44mm is just under 1.75 inches measured ...


9

It may seam counter-intuitive, but in the case like you describe a little grease may be the solution. NOTE: If you have a carbon frame or seat-post, carbon specific grease and a torque wrench should be used. It's very easy to destroy a carbon frame or post by over-tightening when installing parts. Remove the seat post and clean it and the inside of the ...


9

Leather saddles start to sag unless you add tension due to the leather stretching over time. How much tension depends on your body weight and how slack the saddle has become. Try adding enough tension that the saddle feels somewhat taught, but you can still depress the center of the saddle a bit with your thumbs. Ride it then add adjust the tension 1/2 turn ...


9

There are other brands of leather saddle wax I would consider, but I would be careful about trying random leather conditioner products. If you make the leather too soft you can permanently wreck the saddle. Hammock type saddles work by being stiff, not soft. The stiff saddle doesn’t sag much and therefore supports your weight across a wider area. The ...


9

I think it's likely that the frame is just to large for you. A medium frame is generally too large for a person 5'4" (approx. 162cm) in height. What's going in is that distance from the saddle to the bars is likely too long, causing you to have to lean forward too much, which is causing your pelvis to rotate forwards also. When sitting on a bicycle ...


9

What matters is that the saddle is comfortable for the rider given the rides they're doing. There are obvious differences between male and female anatomy, which aren't to be neglected (here's some in-depth further reading, though the focus is on long road rides). This can lead to a need for different structure towards the front of the saddle in particular. ...


8

This article, The Four and a Half Rules of Road Saddles, from Cervélo Cycles has been really helpful to me when pondering saddles. I think the key points are: The saddle needs to be wide enough to support your "sit bones" but not so wide that it chafes on your thighs. The saddle has to be flat enough that the part between your sit bones doesn't press up on ...


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