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3

I've been trying to deal with this for years. Finally, I've discovered something that works in most cases. I primarily work assembling new bikes, including for kids, and have found that sometimes the shifter is jammed up tight against the handlebar grips. I loosen the brake lever and shifter and move them usually no more than 1/16 inch toward the center of ...


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Here's an indispensable resource for anyone doing a build with Shimano parts: Shimano Compatibility Chart. This specific link is a page for Shimano Trekking/Mountain front drivetrain compatibility and lists the appropriate part numbers for the front crank, front derailleur, front shifter and bottom bracket that will match well with each other. As you can ...


2

Friction shift levers have the ability to adjust the amount of friction available. If there is not enough friction the spring in the rear derailleur will be able to pull the cable and move into high gear. Generally there are two types of friction adjustments: a screw a D-ring These shift levers have a D ring - circled in blue. To increase friction turn the ...


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Every Shimano "touring/trekking triple" works. By "touring/trekking", I refer to front derailleurs that are intended for cranksets that have 48 tooth big ring as opposed to "MTB triple" front derailleurs that are intended for triple cranksets with 42 tooth big ring. As for shifters, every friction shifter (such as bar-end front ...


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The derailleur spring is pulling on the cable. If the shifter has not enough friction, this can happen. Do you have a kind of screw to tighten the shifter ?


3

For the setup to work, you'd need to replace the shifter and derailleur. The shifter is needed to get the right number of clicks and correct cable pull between gears, and derailleur is needed because the Shimano changed the actuation ratio between 9 and 11 speeds.


4

Why would you want to use a 9-s cassette? If your bike is 11-s the drive-train will not work and the chain is much too narrow. The indexing is wrong. It can't be adjusted because the spacing between the cogs is different in both systems. The wider 9-s chain might even destroy your RD by getting stuck in the derailleur cage. Get an 11-speed cassette and you ...


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At the beginning, some barrel-shifters were desmodromic*, meaning they had two cables each. One to pull the derailleur in either way and not relying just on a spring in the mechanism to do the job and to ease the shifting. The advantage resides in the fact that the spring especially in the RD wasn't always strong enough to overcome the friction of the cable ...


5

In the absence of a photo to illustrate exactly what you mean, your question makes me think of Shimano Ci Deck where an additional little cable comes out of the shifter and pulls a little display to show what gear you are in. Styled a bit like a gauge cluster from a vehicle. Recent service manual from 2017


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I'm not quite sure what you're asking. Revoshift is a Shimano word for their grip shifters, as opposed to STI levers for drop bars, or thumb/trigger/pod shifters for flat bars. Example 3x7 set of Shimano TOURNEY SL-RS45 from Bike-discount.de, retail price was about 13 GBP in May 2021. Each shifter has one port where the cable exits. This also acts as a ...


3

There will be a cosmetic difference—I'm sure the design of the front shifter will be different from that of the rear shifter. It's up to you to decide whether that matters. A 10-speed chain is narrower than a 7-speed chain, and the cage of a 10-speed front derailleur is slightly narrower as well. I don't think this means that the cable pull for a 10-speed ...


1

This sounds like the classic case of inner cable tension is wrong. If you can see bare wire down beside the downtube, try tugging that with your hand and see the rear derailleur move. Set the shifter to what should be the "easiest/slowest" gear, which is probably the highest number. Then with the rear wheel off the ground, hald-pedal your cranks ...


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Have you checked that your derailleur hanger is straight? You’d need a hanger alignment gauge like the Park DAG or Shimano TL-RD11, etc. there are lots of different options from different bike tool suppliers, but it’s always my first step with any rear derailleur adjustment, to check the hanger. I also find most of the bikes I see are at least a little bit ...


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Yes, all Shimano mountain 10 is the same actuation rate for rear derailleurs as can be seen in the compatibility chart: Note that 9, 11, and 12 are all different, so speed generation mismatches are the thing that doesn't work.


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