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1

When I bought bar-end shifters for my 8-speed drivetrain bike, I had to select the bar-end shifters marketed as "8-speed Ultegra". Those ones marketed as "8-speed Dura-Ace" are the ones intended to be used by the early Dura-Ace systems. I did not have an old Dura-Ace rear derailleur so I had to use the Ultegra bar-end shifter. I suspect ...


2

The 740x rear derailleurs are unicorns that only index with 7400 shifters. I believe there is an SL-7402 downtube shifter. 7400 shifters have a cable anchor routing trick that allows them to work with latter generation RDs, but there is no such trick that works the other direction for RD-7400 et al.


2

My first thought is that the new shifter isn't compatible with the chainring spacing, but unless this group has a super-narrow profile I can't think of one that would be as wide as a typical first-to-third chainring spacing. In my experience, the markings on twist-type shifters are not always equidistant, and may be due to non-linear throw of the derailleur ...


0

Yeah, the little plate that make you shit to bigger cog had an issue on mine, the spring was not strong enough and failed to grip... so, the shift would not work. ` Funny enough, I put a rubber to hold it tight and it's working well. I don't know for how long though...


5

It's a Shimano Positron shift cable. The outer housing is also special. Picture from WorthPoint.com I found a few for sale on ebay - not an endorsement. There were two Positron systems. The first one was very complicated. The since there was no return spring the rear derailleur had two cables to pull back and forth. The later version had one solid wire ...


3

Yes. All Shimano MTB groupsets up to 9 speed all used the same derailleur actuation ratio (how far the cage moves for a given cable pull), so all 8 speed MTB shifters are compatible with all 8 speed MTB derailleurs.


3

Obviously no cable connection between the shifters and derailleurs, both front and rear. The cable housings may have come out of a frame stop The cables may have been snapped, or the ends detached from the shifters or derailleurs Cable may have been pulled through derailleur pinch bolts There is a possibility that one or both shifting mechanisms in the ...


1

Either the shifter, cable or derailleur is stuck. Detach the cable from the derailleur, check the derailleur will move through its full range of motion. Tension the cable by pulling in it with a pair of pliers. Work the shifter and check the cable is payed out and pulled in smoothly. You can also pull the cable housing away from the shifter to expose the ...


1

Go find a scrap donor bike - either check at the local refuse-resell shop, or a bike cooperative. You're after one with friction lever shifters. A simple friction shifter will move as many gears as you want, and won't cost a lot. They're super-versatile and are well-worth holding onto for situations like this. I used one to shift a quad-chainring bike, ...


0

I wonder if it would fit inside the steerer tube? After you’ve adjusted the headset bearing preload the cap and plug serve no purpose anymore and you can just remove them. With 28.6mm outer diameter and ~2mm wall thickness the tube would almost have a sufficiently small inner diameter. Maybe add some tape or something else around the shifters’ clamping ...


0

Two options come to my mind. Firstly, you can try to adjust the limit screws of the derailleurs to make your bike a single-speed one. However, the limit screws are designed mainly to adjust the limits, not put the derailleur to a middle gear. Thus, you might find the limit screws are not long enough, and if you install a longer screw, you might find the ...


2

Any Shimano compatible 9 speed road shifter like the Sora you linked will work. While it will be visually different it will perform the same function. The last of these models were produced in 2007. While the Sora shifters you are looking at may be lower on the hierarchy list, they are likely equal to or better than your nearly the 20 year old technology you ...


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