You should only need to adjust the limit screws if the derailleur can’t move to the highest or lowest position because it runs into the limit screws.
In your case the barrel adjuster for cable tension should be all you need. If you can’t get shifting up and down to work properly it’s usually because you have too much cable friction. This could be due to ...
Presuming this combination of shifter/cable/cassette/rear mech used to work fine together, then something has changed.
I'd start by lifting the bike, and make sure you can actuate the rear mech by pulling on some exposed inner wire while slowly hand-pedalling. You might need an assistant, a workstand, or some cord to suspend the bike a little.
The symptoms ...
SRAM road and mountain 10 speed and road 11 speed rear derailleurs share the same actuation ratio--the amount of derailleur movement per mm of cable pulled by the shifter. SRAM labels this system "Exact Actuation" and it is used on both 10s mountain and 10 & 11 speed road shifters and derailleurs. Also to note is that since you'll be using an ...
I believe the part you require is shown here:
It is available from all Surly/All-City/Problem-Solvers dealers.
Single-sided, bottom bracket mounted cable guide, with integrated cable housing stop.
Intended to fit 40mm diameter bottom bracket shells
Includes M5 mounting bolt
Not quite your situation, but I 3D printed some cable retainers with a curved back-side to match my tube profile, and epoxied these on.
This example would NOT work as an end stop, but it may be possible to make something that does that task.
That is surprising. I wondered for a moment if they only intend you to run it 1×, but I can see on the All-City website that they show it set up 2×.
My first thought was to get a clamp-on stop, as Ichabod suggests. However, there are some front mechs that have integrated cable stops, so see if one of those would work for you.
It looks to me like you may be able to use a clamp-on cable stop. All you need is a round steel-alloy frame tube that is strong enough to accept a clamp. If the clamp is located close to the point where the tube joins the bottom bracket, the frame tubing should be plenty thick enough. (I am not an engineer, and if you have doubts, especially where a frame ...