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8

You can often use the chain tool to drive the half-way inserted pin back out from the chain. I do not think it is advisable to attempt pressing it in again. It is certainly possible, I did re-pressed regular roller pins a couple of times when I or someone else accidentally pressed them out too far so that they fell off. It is not the most enjoyable ...


7

The Evans site is in error. Generally road derailleurs come in SS (short) and GS (medium) versions. The SGS long types are found in MTB groups. Your derailleur may be scraped up but not bent and still servidable, the derailleur hanger typically gets bent in a crash which saves the derailleur. My experience of crashes where I've gone down on my side is the ...


6

A medium cage is fine with 11 up to 34. It may have been marketed by E. as a long cage. BTW: check the derailleur hanger, it might be bent. Also, don't throw the bent derailleur away. It could still be usable for spares like jockey wheels, bolts etc.


5

What's going to different is the length of the pin. The outside width dimension of higher speed chains get progressively narrower, so the corresponding connector pin would also have to be shorter. You definitely would not want to use an 11 speed pin on a 9 speed chain as it would not be long enough and the chain would be weakened. A 9 speed pin on an 11 ...


5

I would re-tighten the bleed port screw and watch for leaks. If you get no leakage and the screw does not loosen then you are fine. A partially damaged thread should not be a problem as the bleed port screw does not have any load on it. (There should not even be any fluid pressure on it during braking as the reservoir is cut off from the line by the piston ...


4

The marks on the splines look about normal. It's hard to tell absolutely from the pics. You're looking for any sign of deformation or rounding, which occurs if the pinch bolts are loose while riding. Always make sure the pinch bolts are nice and tight, 14Nm or about as much as you would ever put through a long-handled 5mm L-wrench. You need to be able to ...


3

I think you can drive the detached 'leader' part of the pin out, then drive in a second connector link as normal. The part of the connector pin that stays in the chain has a slightly greater diameter than the regular pins so that it has an interference fit in the link plates. This is why you have to re-break a chain at a different link. The first pin would ...


2

In Shimano cranks the plastic bolt is hand tightened prior to tightening the pinch bolts to 'preload' the bearings and take up play. When the plastic bolt is tightened the crank arms press on the inner bearing races only which is what takes up the play. If you remove the left crank arm and take away the preload you will feel a some play in the bearings. I'...


2

I have found that Shimano offers non-series road flatbar shifters such as the 11-spd SL-RS700. So this one can be used with GRX-derailleurs, as GRX is compatible to all roadbike components Shimano offers. The original source (in German) is here : https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/shimano-grx-schaltwerk-flatbar-schalthebel.908787/


2

I'd go with XT 11 speed shifter and derailleur. Shimano does not publish MTB-Road groupset cross compatibility and I'd assume GRX and XT are not compatible. I think a bigger issue is whether a GRX crank is compatible with your bike. GRX cranks are designed to fit road-like gravel bike frames which may have a narrower bottom bracket than MTB frames. If you ...


2

If you think your chain is rubbing on the front derailleur I think it's safe to say that the noise is coming from the drivetrain. Front derailleur rub tends to occur when the chain is at the most inboard or outboard positions, either small chaining / largest sprocket or large chaining / smallest sprocket. I would not expect to get rub on the 2 or more of ...


2

I would use your existing 'snapped' connector pin and drive it in with the chain tool to force out the piece that is stuck (as you suggested in post). I would then drive out the connector pin with the chain tool (as if I were breaking the chain). And finally I would start over with a new connector pin. It's definitely worth carrying a few shimano pins and ...


2

The plastic cover is there to protect the wheel bearings. It prevents dust from entering in. So it's totally fine if it's loose.


2

All signs point to yes. The differences between 10 speed chain width and 11 speed chain width are minimal (5.88mm vs 5.62mm) and although the spacing on the cassette is narrower for 11 speed the front chainring spacing is often the same. Lennard Zinn says it'll be fine


2

The side that you say has been rubbed silver by friction is like that on a new ring (I've got two, bought from SJS cycles). From what I can tell from other posts it's intended to stop water and crud getting into the bearing. That would suggest that the non-silver side, the ridged side, should go next to the bearing because this is like an oil seal (although ...


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