New answers tagged shimano
4
Shifters are rarely the weakest point in bicycle maintenance. Their operation does not deal with big loads nor aggressive environment, compared to what chain, chainrings, tires etc. are subject to.
Shifters can be damaged in a crash, but everything else can as well. They can also become filled with gunk, but there are cleaning tricks to flush it out. If ...
4
Many shifters can are used for the whole lifetime of a bike. They are also pretty expensive.
It is also very likely that there wilm be replacement 10-speed shifters available in future, but it is true that Shimano switched to a different cable pull.
Anyway, given the price of the shifter and the lower likelihood of needing to replace it, I would NOT buy a ...
0
These are an obvious fake. The 1 in the gear indicator looks like it was done by a 3 year-old. The other numbers are the wrong font also. The writing 'speed' is laughably bad and could not possibly that bad on a genuine product.
The metal strip above the gear window does not meet the edge, like it should, and the barrel adjuster is obviously crude.
The Mega ...
1
Getting into 3rd or not can be extremely sensitive on a too high cable tension
Others mentioned cable tension, and you'd think that is obvious, but I just wanted to highlight that quite small changes in cable tension can make a huge difference.
For example, here's a picture of my Shimano ST-EF65 opened up:
By pushing the thumb lever, I could make the chain ...
-2
For a detailed video of how to open up this Shimano Lever, clean it up and put it back together check out this link:
1
I am sure you got the fake product. Currently, fake Shimano parts from China are also flooding Indonesia‘s Online marketplaces. We can see the difference from: quality, material, weight, price,etc.
To prevent receiving any fake product in Online marketplace, I usually ask clarification from the seller & review the comments before buying it.
2
The yellow dots should be lined up when in a specific gear, which is gear 4 for a 7 speed nexus, (gear 6 for an 11 speed alfine)
Generally speaking, to change tube on an IGH wheel you need to get the wheel off the bike.
Release rim brakes to make room for tyre to pass through
Undo wheel nuts with 15mm spanner - your bike won't have a quick release.
Unclip ...
0
The problem here seems quite obvious, you have to tweak the H screw on the back of the derailleur. You have to unscrew it just until you are able to shift down to the last gear. Don't unscrew too much, because the chain will escape out the last gear, since the shifter rely on that stop screw.
4
At bikex.org, boiling water has been far more reliable than degreaser. We've had many gummed up shifters and the hot water works faster on old really old grease than (citrus) degreaser. Even the chemical degreasers haven't worked as well.
0
When the battery level falls below a certain point, front shifting is disabled.
This is by design.
Charge the battery and try again.
0
Upon initial inspection, the issue described may seem alarming. However, the newer Shimano derailleurs are slightly bent and twisted to aid in shifting performance and meeting the ever increasing demands of larger cassettes.
For instance, the XTR M9100 derailleur is slightly bent and twisted and angled in such a way that the lower pulley wheel is facing ...
0
The "click" you are referring to is inherent to the design of Shimano's SPD, SPD-R and SPD-SL pedals. Each click signifies an increase in torque of the spring which tightens the retaining jaw.
Broadly speaking, there are two general possibilities. The first is that the tightening mechanism has worn out and the clicks are now overlapping with one ...
1
FC-TY501 is a straight swap according to Shimano's specs https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/lc/tourney/3x7, but you will need to get one the same chainrings you have now (e.g. 48/38/28 or 42/34/24).
Other options will work fine also, preferably those with 47.5mm chainline, but for proper front shifting either matching all three chainrings, or failing that ...
0
The specs are published at https://bike.shimano.com/en-NZ/product/component/tourney/FC-TY301.html so you need a triple chainring crankarm, with 170mm long crank, and probably a square-taper bottom bracket fitting.
While "matching the chainline" is important, its likely that any similar part will fit up and work fine, with perhaps some minimal ...
4
From Shimano's Technical Documents website comes this exploded view of your right shifter. Typically on these drawings, Shimano will give the size and length of any fasteners highlighted in the drawing (see the "Clamp Bolt" listing--#8--in the linked schematic), however the entire base cover with it's screws is one part number and no information is ...
4
Firstly it's generally a good idea to change chains at around 0.75% wear. This means a cassette will last for several chains, since there is little wear on cassette , chainrings and jockey wheels when the chain is new/not stretched.
However 7400km is not bad.
You don't indicate the state of your other components but normally if a chain goes beyond 1% wear it ...
4
A Shimano 10-speed MTB cassette is a 10-speed Shimano MTB cassette. There is no functional difference.
The differences will be only in the weight or the durability (the rate of wear) due to different materials.
And some possibly very minor differences in the construction like whether the sprockets are rivetted together or not. Mostly irrelevant to most users....
1
You’re in luck! Here’s a photo of the underside I grabbed, back when I was selling a M7000 shifter myself.
Can you see fine bolt threads inside the hole? If so, it’s going to be either M2 or M2.5, possibly M3. If the missing bolt obviously screwed into the silver mounting bracket, it definitely isn’t a wood screw.
It appears to be the same screw as the ...
1
At a guess, your ebike has a main rechargeable battery and a separate coin cell battery in the controller, aka the TCD or Turbo Connect Display.
The warning says "LO BAT" for Low Battery, and you'll need to replace the CR2032 3V coin cell that keeps the bike's memory alive when the main battery is removed or flat.
I don't have one, but searching ...
1
I have a list of 9-12 speed Shimano chainsets here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HdcNgmQKFA-lAqQJ3lXQ8SwA4tblAKiOXe9XYJJHYN8/edit#gid=375920416
Refer to the 10-speed MTB tab.
There is considerable overlap between double and triple small chainrings for MTB (none for road).
E.g. SLX FC-M677 is either 38/24 or 36/22, meanwhile SLX FC-M672 is 40/30/22....
6
That's your brake lever - a critical part of the braking system. If you glued the parts together, there's every chance they may separate under heavy braking.
Do not bodge it - a complete replacement is the only decent solution.
You may want to keep the shattered parts as spares - items like plastic covers may prove useful someday.
As to why it broke like ...
12
Sadly, all I have is bad news.
It's not a quality control issue. It may not have felt like much of a crash but that lever was hit hard.
There is no way to fix it. The plastic shell is part of the structure of the lever, not just a cover. It also provides a human / machine interface with a particular shape and feel. If you glue it back together it won't be ...
0
I've had the same sudden drop issue when reaching 30%.
I did replace the battery with a brand new one and same problem occurs.
So it is definitely a Shimano issue.
1
The Shimano compatibility documentation gives the official answers
The RD-RX800 is compatible with all the 11 speed road shifters
The RD-RX812 is compatible with GRX levers only, but that is because the RX-RX812 is for 1x setups, only the GRX range has 1x levers, with the left unit being a brake lever only.
Note that although both the 800 and 812 derailleurs ...
1
The rear pull ratios used by Shimano are:
SIS v1 for Dura-Ace 7400 only, which was about 1mm cable to 1.9mm derailleur movement
SIS v2 for everything excluding that, up to the introduction of 10-speed MTB (i.e. including 10-speed road, which came before 10sp MTB), which was about 1:1.7
Dynasys / 'New MTB' - which was introduced for 10-speed MTB and kept for ...
3
Your question is unclear; a frame would normally be just a frame, without calipers or levers.
From your question it is therefore not clear whether you have the levers or not.
M3050 is a basic caliper with no special features.
If you buy the cheapest set of Shimano brakes, which would be MT200, then this would be the same quality as M3050, but would come with ...
3
The BH59 or BH90 will work. You will need to trim the hoses to length (as they always come excessively long), and install them with the correct hydraulic fittings. There will be a T-shaped insert that needs to be hammered into each end of the cut hose, a brass barrel-shaped piece that slips over each end, and a special nut that holds everything together and ...
2
Shimano BR-M3050 calipers are from the Acera line: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/acera-m3000/BR-M3050.html
Normally I'd point you to the Shimano specifications page which tells you the brake hose kit required, however the BR-M3050 calipers are missing. I suspect that the BR-M3050 calipers are new and replace the BR-MT200 calipers in the ...
4
You don’t say what size the cassette is but presumably it is a wide range model.
11 speed compatible freehub bodies are 1.8mm longer than 8-10 speed ones. Some wide range 11 speed cassettes can fit on a 10 speed freehub because the the large diameter inner sprockets can overhang the inner end of the freehub body a little and clear the drive side flange and ...
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