New answers tagged

1

I had opened the reservoir of the front brake caliper instead of the rear.


1

Fixable? Possibly - but there will be risks, and you need to decide if the risks are worth accepting. Downsides: Its your brake lever - and there's a 50% chance its your front brake lever. The front brake is the most effective brake on our bikes, because it does 90+% of the braking. Any bending of the lever back into line will stress the metal ...


1

Yss, this setup will work. You are correct that the sprocket spacing is the same for Shimano (and SRAM) road and mountain 9 speed systems. Shimano road up to 10 speed and mountain up to 9 speed derailleurs used the same cable actuation ratio (ratio of how much cable is pulled by the shifter to how far the derailleur cage moves laterally). What this means ...


2

Yes, with 9-speed this sort of combination works because Shimano mountain and road rear derailleur actuation was the same until mountain 10 came out.


2

I can give an explanation of what is going on with the setup you have, and why the chainrings seem offset from the cassette. I think that perhaps there is not any problem and you don't need to adjust the chainline. An older bike with a triple drivetrain will have 73mm BB shell (as you said) and a 135mm rear dropout spacing. Standard chanline was 47.5mm. The ...


1

Specialites TA makes a 50 tooth 9-speed chainring for MTB cranks. Since the inner width of all derailleur chains is the same, it is probable that the outer ring from 9-speed series does not cause problems. If you install one, it's on your own risk. The clearance problems affect mostly inner and middle rings, the outer one is probably fine. If your front ...


5

Ben, congratulations on your new bike! Yes the behavior is normal. The large cog should have a similar setting, i.e. if you don't shift all the way to the small ring, but just click gently, it should move into an intermediate position as well. This is called "trimming" and is important to allow the chain to access all rear cogs without scratching on the ...


1

I'm guessing that what you could do is look for 3rd party larger rings that fit on the XT crank. Beware you may not have enough clearance between the drive side chainstay and larger chainrings. You won't be able to increase the size of just the largest chainring from 48 to 50 or more. On a triple chainring drivetrain the rear derailleur will not have enough ...


2

Wanting a bigger ring indicates you'd like a higher gear, not a lower one. Low gears are your climbing gears. Part of the answer depends on which front derailleur you have. Front derailleurs have a profile to their outer cage that needs to match well with the profile of a given chainring size in order to perform well and not cause derailment. If you have a ...


2

What @Criggie said because there is no adjuster on these derailleurs, as you have discovered. Additionally, I find it possible to get gears working without an adjuster, or with the adjuster screwed all the way in - after all, Shimano have done the hard work already in engineering. You would set the high limit screw so the guide pulley is perfectly in line ...


6

Page 19 of the linked Dealer Manual shows the barrel is in the shifter, up on the bars. From https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RD0004-09-ENG.pdf If yours doesn't have one, are you using a different/wrong or off-brand shifter? You will need to fit an in-line barrel adjuster like this:


1

The pictures definitely show a chain that is routed incorrectly on the wrong side of the derailment prevention plate. (See diagram) It doesn’t matter that the bike is upside down, the chain is clearly on the wrong side of the plate.


2

That's definitely a Japanese frame and my guess is the wheels were an upgrade somewhere along the line. The mix of Shimano and Suntour also is unlikely to be how the bike was sold. My guess is the Cyclone derailleurs were an upgrade, but since it's friction shifting it all plays fine together. A web site with a lot of experts is the "Vintage Cream" ...


2

The beauty with friction shift levers is they're compatible with almost every derailleur. The greatest challenge is to get the rear shifting dialed in with the closely spaced rear cassette cogs on 10, 11 and 12 speed setups. But your Hilltopper was probably sold with 7 or 8 speeds in the back which will work perfectly for friction shifters. If one over or ...


2

Instead of rebuilding a new hub to your rim, it will probably be most cost effective to get a new rear wheel with one of the louder freehubs or you could even go for a complete set of wheels so the front & rear wheels have the same spokes & rims. BUT, Shimano XT hubs are excellent and yes Shimano is noted for making quiet freehubs. I have wheels ...


2

As Argenti Apparatus already mentioned, the sound comes from the hub. There are various kinds of springs and ratchets in different hubs. You can use this Youtube playlist with hub sound checks as a guide when selecting your hub. The videos also contain explanation commentary for the features of the sounds. For example:


4

It's the freehub rachet mechanism in the hub that makes a rapid repeated clicking sound when you stop pedaling. The cassette is not involved as it slides on the splined freehub body and has no moving parts. (Older technology freewheels combined the sprockets and rachet mechanism on on unit though.) Silent or quieter hubs are usually considered an upgrade. ...


7

OK, I eventually worked out the easier way. The locknut has a hole in the end which, in addition to taking the skewer when fitted, has a hex socket for a 5mm allen key. Turn the hex/allen key anti-clockwise relative to the cone spanner to undo.


3

There is an item Shimano calls a crank Plate Pin, which is that black plastic plate visible on your crank, and circled in the diagram below (4). It has a little pin which should stop the crank coming off in this situation, yours must have been damaged if the crank came off and it should be replaced. Many internet commenters scorn them but has worked for me ...


5

Shimano Hollowtech II cranks use two pinch bolts to secure the crank to the axle. From your picture it looks like you have those. You are missing the plastic end cap, and you may possibly be missing a washer that sits between the crank and the frame. There is no spacer, the play is probably because the crank arm is not fully on the spindle. To install the ...


Top 50 recent answers are included