New answers tagged shimano
2
You should only need to adjust the limit screws if the derailleur can’t move to the highest or lowest position because it runs into the limit screws.
In your case the barrel adjuster for cable tension should be all you need. If you can’t get shifting up and down to work properly it’s usually because you have too much cable friction. This could be due to ...
3
Presuming this combination of shifter/cable/cassette/rear mech used to work fine together, then something has changed.
I'd start by lifting the bike, and make sure you can actuate the rear mech by pulling on some exposed inner wire while slowly hand-pedalling. You might need an assistant, a workstand, or some cord to suspend the bike a little.
The symptoms ...
2
The only thing I can think of is a similar behaviour I had on an M315 (IIRC) brake where the fluid would drip down, but I couldn't push it back up to the lever no matter what.
The piston-thingy in the lever has a tiny hole which needs to line up with the port to the reservoir. For whatever reason, it was not lined up. I can't remember why but I think it had ...
3
The real answer may be: The Cassette is lousy.
I have found it impossible to get the shifting reliable on those bikes. Decent, with frequent problems, is the best I can get them. So, I took a look at the cassette, which, per Framed bikes, was supposed to be a Sunrace 10 speed 11-42. That's what's on my Framed Minnesota. However, both these Framed Minnesota ...
4
At around 1:21 when you shift down onto the second-largest cog, that brief grinding heard is a noise that usually goes along with the b-gap not being enough. That is probably not the whole problem here but it could be contributing. (See page 21 of the dealer manual document). I would start by screwing the b-tension screw in until that noise goes away.
It's ...
1
It looks like it's mostly a 'generation' issue: the M6000 was the top of the previous Deore range. Given than the top of the current Deore range is now 1x12 with 10/51T cassettes (M6100), 11/42T cassettes have moved to the 'basic' Deore setups (M4120 without clutch, M5120 with clutch).
Otherwise, to summarize the spec sheets, the M6000 has a clutch and the ...
0
I'm thinking to another alternative, that I give for reference as I can totally understand that moving from XT to Deore/Alivio is a downgrade. But if you can't have exactly what you want, you have to make compromises and this compromise will depend at the end of you priorities.
There is a 46/30 chainring in the Alivio range (FC-MT210-2). It's rated for 9-...
4
You could consider using one of 9t small cog XD driver cassettes, like the e*thirteen XCX 9-39 as an example. The problem with that is if you find yourself using the small end of the cassette a lot, you will wear them out fast. The small cogs are replacable, but there's still the hassle of doing it, and if you wear out the second-smallest etc then it's a ...
5
I'm aware of ~5 options.
JTEK barend shifter for drop bars
MicroSHIFT brifter again for drop bars
Create some kind of stub shaft for your shifter to secure onto. This was common for Rolhoff shifters. 3D Printing might be a good solution here.
File and grind till it fits. Example from https://www.flickr.com/photos/27209537@N00/5253435428
This would ...
2
Yes, it's the left side dust cover, you have installed it correctly in your photograph, into the left side of the hub. It should remain as pictured so it can tessellate with the dark grey ring on the cone, creating a 'labyrinth' seal to keep dust out. If it was reversed, then it would obstruct the assembly.
I don't see it on the exploded parts diagram, I ...
2
For completeness, the part shown in the OP's photos, the silver recessed ring (dust cover) would appear to be the left hand counter-part of part #5, which doesn't appear to be shown in the exploded diagram:
As Swifty states in their answer, it may be that it is part of part #11 and sits within the recess of part #11. However, it is strange that it isn't ...
5
There are a lot of parts to this question.
A "press fit" bottom bracket is a name for a whole class of bottom-bracket standards, but it describes the interface between the bearings and the frame, not the bearings and the BB spindle. With a press-fit BB, cartridge bearings are pressed directly into the BB shell. There is a similar class of bottom ...
2
The SM-BBR60 bottom bracket and any Hollowtech 2 style crankset with 24mm spindle should work fine. Your rear hub is 11 speed compatible. As far as I can tell there is nothing preventing you from upgrading everything to the latest Shimano 105 groupset.
I would ride the current components until the chain and cassette (and ideally chainrings and cables) are ...
7
I am somewhat confused by your description " they need pulling almost to the handlebar to brake". If you actually need to adjust the bite-point, that is done by tightening the cable at the brake caliper or by adjusting the pistons or using the barrel adjuster.
For mechanical disc brakes with two movable pistons (Defy can apparently have TRP Spyre):...
5
It's the center-center distance, but it should be stamped on the inside of the arm.
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I would suggest not to change the crank, At first even I was hating on the crankset on the DS 4 but trust me Prowheel did a good job on this in terms of aesthetic's and even the BB is their top of the line for 68/73mm width shell, IMO stick with it.
1
I found a small cork and put it in the hole and this seems to be working. I can easily get it out using a pair of needle nosed pliers and by turning it (like I was removing a screw). Good luck!
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It appears you have this hub or one much like it. The washers with your cone/cup piece ("Body Fixing Race") are what Shimano calls "adjustment washers."
Removing one or more of those washers is how you adjust play out of most Shimano freehub bodies. Generally speaking, start out by taking one away and put the hub back together like that. ...
0
The worn battery may refuse any power when too much asked and not sufficiently charged. Simply ride few minutes with no assist. It should recover. Powering the bicyce off and on may help to recover faster.
You can avoid this problem by using a more charged battery, selecting low level of assist and switching into lower gear.
In my case the problem invariably ...
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