16

You can see in the video how the teeth on the cassette rotate quickly at the moment it slips(at :05 seconds), while the spokes of the wheel actually stay slow, then jolt forwards to catch up. This means that the freewheel mechanism in the rear hub is failing to engage. It's actually quite dangerous because as it gets worse it could cause you to lose ...


11

Confirming @Swifty's diagnosis. It's the freewheel mechanism. Take it back to where you purchased it and demand full refund or at least a complete new rear wheel. Don't let them try to repair the freewheel or the hub. Accept replacement only. The store has already demonstrated incompetence and a disregard for customer satisfaction by being unable or ...


11

I have tried to regulate the rear gear mechanism by adjusting the position screws but failed to make any improvement. That's almost never the adjustment that the rear derailleur needs. Those screws are called the limit screws, and they set how far in and out the derailleur can move. All they do is stop the derailleur from moving the chain all the way off ...


10

Yes it can and I've seen it before, but the problems you describe sound like issues which could be fixed with a simple gear tune rather than being caused by worn-out components. The only one that I've seen wearing out that quickly could largely be blamed on the riding style of its owner. He was a heavy rider and reasonably strong, so he was someone who ...


9

Since the rings, cogs and chain are new, and decent components we can safely eliminate the possibility that there is a problem with the chain grabbing the rings or cogs. Here is what I suspect might be happening: it's your derailleur: due to wear, damage or perhaps weakened springs. Here is how: as you pedal, the chain temporarily catches in the derailleur ...


8

Even for a low end eBike using 400km will not wear out drivetrain parts. If the chain was slipping over the sprockets, you would feel the cranks and pedals slipping forwards. This tends to be sporadic and makes a loud clang or crunch. If you are hearing a periodic ticking, It's likely the rear derailleur indexing needs adjustment. From your post it sounds ...


6

As you have a master link, removing the chain should be easy. My guess - you threaded the chain in the wrong way through the rear derailleur. There are a couple of metal extrusions between the rollers, intended to keep the chain from jumping. With the chain still attached, look at the part of the RD I have tried to mark with "1" and check if the chain is ...


6

₹ 555 (Indian Rupees) is about $11 NZD or about $7.50 US, 5.64 UKP or 6.27 Euros. So you've got a seatpost that is incredibly cheap and likely made of low-grade metals. Zooming in a bit shows the terrible surface finish, and the inside won't be any better. By repeatedly alternating between tight and loose, the threads inside have become "stripped"...


5

With reference to the new/used bits of your question, note that using worn consumables (chain, cassette etc.) on a bike is never a good idea, largely because you're in the dark as regards how much life is left in them. So my best guess is that the chain or maybe both chain and the cassette needs replacing for new parts. Assuming that these parts are ...


5

A tune-up fundamental SHOULD be the proper alignment of the rear derailleur hanger. If the shop doesn't use a Park Tool DAG-1 [derailleur hanger alignment gauge], or some other manufacturer's, to inspect, verify, and correct the relation of the hanger to 3 different points on rim of rear wheel at 180 and 45 degrees apart it is throwing parts at a bike. As ...


5

Alfine owner here whose hub is slipping after having changed gear. The Alfine is extremely susceptible to misalignment in the setup. There are two sets of yellow markers that need to be aligned. One can be adjusted using the gear barrel adjuster. https://aseasyasridingabike.wordpress.com/2013/02/01/a-simple-guide-to-adjusting-a-shimano-nexus-hub-gear/ The ...


5

This feels like a new chain on a worn cassette problem. The fix is to replace the cassette, and soon before your chain suffers accelerated wear. Assuming you have 9 speed shifter and rear mech still, the slightly narrower chain won't really make any difference while pedalling, and shifts might be slightly sloppier. I run a 10 speed chain on a 9 speed ...


5

The cassette does not look worn out A cassette that is worn does not look worn. It'll skip anyway despite not looking worn. I suspect your cassette is simply too worn. (Interestingly, for chainrings the opposite is true: a chainring can look very visibly worn due to the non-even wearing at different crank orientations, and still work.) The new chain barely ...


4

First disconnect the cable to rear derailleur and using your hand push the derailleur towards the spokes and then release it. Do you feel any binding? If so, something is wrong with your derailleur. With the rear derailleur cable still disconnected, grab hold of the cable and slide it through the housings. Is it catching on anything? Some resistance is ...


4

Your problem is worn out (or broken) index springs aka G-springs. These are part of the shifter mechanism. Worn out G-springs will enable rear derailleur spring to pull the cable over the indexes. One way to test is putting the rear derailleur on bigger sprocket and pull the cable. If it drops indexes (goes to smaller sprocket) then the problem is caused ...


4

Posting this to help others who may stumble upon this. Took my bike into a local coop, armed with my roommate's hunch about the freehub body, and I removed it, and the guys there said that it had too much play and wasn't ratcheting correctly. Either damage to the pawls or gunk. Put a new freehub on, and it's as good as new. The take away here for me was: ...


4

Had this so so many times and so far it’s always came down to the mech hanger being slightly bent, delivering the chain to the cassette slightly off causing it to be exaggerated under pressure. Spent over 400 trying to fix it, then as a last resort just by chance changed the mech hanger (30 euro), it was SLIGHTLY bent like a few millimeters and that’s what ...


4

The correct answer to your query depends on the model and age of the system. If it's an older system from the Record or Chorus ranges, when they were still 10s (pre 2009), then yes, the G-springs are a possibility. If it's from pre 2007 and is from the lower Campagnolo ranges (Xenon, Mirage, Veloce or Centaur) then it could possibly be a G-spring issue - ...


4

I have an Alfine 11 (so very similar) and I had the hub replaced 2 times on warranty because of this skipping problem. The third one is fine so far (~15000km on it). So based on my experience: Have it replaced a second time. It also does skip when misaligned as mentioned in the other answer and yes it's tricky to get right and tends to misalign over time. ...


4

This sounds like classic derailleur cable friction. The cable gets stuck inside the housing and stops or delays the derailleur moving to smaller sprockets. This is caused by dirt contaminating the housing, or perhaps corrosion of the cable. The fix is to remove, clean, re-lube and re-install the cable, or replace the cable and housing altogether.


4

These are things I have experienced that have caused chain skipping under load: Running a new chain with a worn cassette Rear derailleur out of adjustment Badly worn chainring Freehub engagement problem The last one isn't actually the chain skipping, but it feels similar


3

There could be a number of problems. First, technique. This is all you, so it's cheap and fairly easy. Derailleur gears don't work well when the chain is going from the inside at one end to the outside at the other, as below. In those gears if you shift the front derailleur you can easily drop the chain. Or if you're trying to shift into that gear it will ...


3

I'm sure you're a better judge of how effective your LBS employees are than people on an Internet forum, but in my experience it isn't uncommon to find some LBS employees are not very enthusiastic about working on bikes they view unfavorably for whatever reason: too old, too inexpensive, and so forth. Some think that working on an inexpensive bike is like ...


3

Your cassette and possibly chainwheels are worn out. When a chain wears, the cogs wear down together with it and will not mesh correctly with a new chain. Worn cogs do not look like the teeth would be actually wearing down. Instead, the teeth get narrower and eventually develop an asymmetric "shark fin" shape. If you do not know exactly what to look for, a ...


3

Pedaling while changing gears in important to avoid damage to derailleur and chain. Gear shifting proper technique by Sheldon Brown. Shift the gears so that chain is on the middle chain ring(at the pedals) and approximately on the middle gear on the cassette. Verify that the derailer with the chain is vertical, if not adjust accordingly. Also, it is ...


3

The tensioner spring is designed to keep the entire chain under tension, even after it passes the crank. So, the symptom of a too-weak tensioner is slack in the chain between the crank and tensioner. It sounds like the distance between chain links is not quite the same as the distance between valleys in your sprockets. This is not unusual if you ...


3

I also have a belt drive bike with a Alfine 8 hub (Cube Hyde Race). I have experienced exactly the same problem ie popping/skipping under load. I have sent it back twice, and still no good. The first time Tredz sent it back to Cube they replaced the hub internals. This was no good at all and clearly had not been test ridden at all. I sent it straight back....


3

I finally brought the bike to technician who discovered that the gear switching cable does not move freely enough (gets stuck). This is why I was not able find the good positions for any screws I attempted to adjust. Regardless of my desperation, the components of the gear itself were not worn, hence I leave the accepted answer as correct. As for now, when ...


3

To me, that looks pretty worn. My guess is that as the chain elongates, it grinds further into the gear valleys, making the "flattened" profile. The chain and cassette become mechanically paired, wearing together until the chain breaks. The cassette longs for its lost chain and will not take another mate... er, is mechanically incompatible with ...


3

Good description of the problem, I think you've done everything correctly so far and the issue you describe is normally a misaligned derailleur hanger. It doesn't take a lot of misalignment to cause this issue. I don't understand how the shifter cable tension can be correct for the gears at one end of the range but incorrect for the other end of the range. ...


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