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26

I've got about 20,000 miles experience commuting in Alaska snow. There are really 3 kinds of snow to deal with: deep & fluffy, hard & icy, and slush. I have two bikes, a Pugsley with Large Marge tires for deep snow, and a Kona 29er for everything else. The trick to the Pugs is deflating the tires so they track right. 10psi in front is maybe too ...


11

You would probably be alright by adding some studded tires to your existing bike. That will help a lot with control when ice is present. Skinny tires actually handle deep stuff well since they cut through it instead of float on top of it. Anyone who rides a fat bike knows that if the snow isn't compacted, your front wheel can float sideways and put you on ...


9

You can avoid this problem altogether with studded tires The pattern is deep enough so that it grabs quite well on the snow, and the studs give you a very good grip on ice and hard snow. On uniformly flat ice, the grip is almost as good as asphalt. If the tires are good, you can wear them for all winter season, even if there is no ice. The studs are not ...


9

Lower pressure for a larger contact patch to increase traction is common. Cyclocross riders (for one) use low pressure. Weigh that against pinch flats. As you lower the pressure you increase chance of pinch flats. In snow the pot holes and bumps are partially hidden. Tread type and depth will also affect snow traction.


8

Your winters are harsher than mine but I run spiked tyres for the ice that we do get. They have some tread (like a not too agreesive MTB tyre). The choice of tyre is more important than the choice of bike. But winter tyres are wider than road tyres (35mm+) so won't fit road bikes and may not fit your frame. Bikes suffer in winter (wet all the time + ...


6

I strongly suggest you put a studded tyre on the bike (ideally 2, but certainly the back in your case). I run Schwalbe winters for occasional icy patches (overkill round here, except when they aren't). This will be important for stopping as well as going. Spinning the back wheel with a trailer is no fun. The trailer tyres don't matter nearly so much. ...


6

It's kind of goofy and requires a bit of time to do, but you can zip tie your wheels to make snow wheels. While they aren't reusable if you remove them, it's a fairly cheap method. Here's a brief overview/guide. And then I went and found these too. They are supposed to work with all brake systems. As far as the socks go, I couldn't find anything smaller ...


6

Having lived in a few parts of the US, I've found what people call small to medium to be drastically different based on the region ("oh yeah, we just had a light snow last night", and i look outside to see 4+ inches versus "it snowed like crazy last night" and i look outside to see a half inch and the whole city has come to a grinding halt), so its a bit ...


6

I have been riding a Gates CDC (not Centertrack) belt drive for almost a year now. I have ridden my bike in various weather conditions and temperatures ranging from over 90℉ to under 0℉. I have ridden through a variety of snowy conditions, including a foot-and-half of fresh snow on a few occasions, but more commonly mixed snow/ice/slush conditions. I have ...


5

In addition to @jeyhendren and @phil-johnstone nice answers I want to add my 3 findings. First year with snow I (RieseMüller/Bosch/Nuvinci/center track) had no problem whatsowever. I can't remember the quality of the snow but during a winter it must have been sticky several times. Then 2 weeks ago the belt jumped and, contrary to instructions, I tried to ...


5

At the time the question was asked, there were no 16" studded bike tyres. Now, however, there are: http://www.schwalbe.com/en/pressereader/spikes-for-birdy-and-brompton.html But unfortunately there are two different 16" rim sizes, and the new Schwalbes are 349mm (as used by Brompton), and 16" Dahon is 305mm. It might be possible to fit a Brompton sized ...


5

I prefer not using anything in the snow to block the snow. You risk the snow packing in the snow blocker (e.g. fenders) and freezing, which can be dangerous. A brush against the tire (depending on the stiffness of the bristles) could also damage your tire. If you want to use something, a seatpost fender and a downtube mudguard are probalby the safest ...


4

I thought I've seen something like this before... so I googled a bit and found traces of this design, apparently deceased. While it looks clever, I have some doubts that it will work efficiently for any real rain. As soon as the brush is "saturated" with water, incoming drops will cause some of already collected water to detach and continue its way up. It ...


3

Sounds like fun - I'd start by riding on quiet roads, and I'd fit studded tyres to all four wheels. You can swap back to non-studded come summer. Look if your ebike function has a limiter function. You don't want full power else wheel slip. My trailer always gets a skunk stripe on the front, from the rooster tail of the rear wheel. BUT its got a "full" ...


3

Hey to everyone reading this 4+ years later. I just wanted to add to what people are talking about forks and "Suspended's" mention of the freehub. I just want to add what I've learned from biking for the past 2 years, year round in Ann Arbor, MI. Fork: To me the biggest thing is salt, but since this was about temps and on the slope I would agree that ...


3

Perhaps. There are two main areas of a bicycle prone to damage in truly cold temperatures. The first is your freehub. When the grease in a freehub gets thicker, it can prevent the hub from full engagement. At best this means when you pedal forward, nothing happens. At worst, you can get partial engagement and chip/destroy the teeth inside your freehub, ...


3

Having ridden in snow many times before I'd recommend the knobby tires with some air let out of it so you can have more surface on the snow/ground. Just a bit. Not a lot. Also, use the mud guards as well as you'll never know when/if the snow will melt.


3

After looking at the setups people were using for the arrowhead 135 race in canada that has start temps around -20f, it looked like everyone was using disc brakes. Folks were using hydraulic and cable actuated discs (Avid BB7 is wildly popular). One of the best things for disc brakes (and your shifters) is FULL HOUSING. This will help keep areas where ...


3

Winterize it. If your freewheel or freehub is "skipping" in cold conditions, it is entirely possible the grease inside it is not appropriate for colder conditions. When this happens, it cause the pawls (or other engagement mechanism) to not engage. The free mechanism basically stays stuck in the way it is when you are not pedaling. When this happens ...


3

I haven't been in an organization that would have considered arranging such event and then decided not to, so this is pure speculation. I have a guess with two reasons: weight and competing activities. First, winter camping requires much more equipment than summer: heavy sleeping bags, warm clothing, fuel, and taken to extreme a tent with stove. These are ...


2

All brake types that lock your wheels work. Because traction is required to stop you, spend more on better studded (ice) tires, because once your wheels are locked your tires will help you stop/not. Hydraulic brakes are overhyped. They are more prone to failure when tested in salty conditions due to more small moving parts that can corrode. Mechanical ...


2

You're describing a Fat-Front setup. Cornering on soft surfaces should be improved, as well as shock absorption if you run low pressure, but drive would only improve in the case where the fat front tyre can compact snow enough for the regular rear tyre to dig in less than it would on a standard MTB.


2

When I lived in Ithaca New York, I used tire chains for my RockHopper mountain bike. It made going down the steep slope of Buffalo Street in the dead of winter a bit less terrifying. This brand is called SlipNot but there are others on the market as well. The advantage of chains is that they can be taken off in the Spring. The disadvantage is that you have ...


2

As long as the bike paths and roads you'll be traveling along are reasonably well cleared of deep snow, this would be no big issue. You can order basic Schwalbe Winter studded tires cheaply (around 40euro a pair) from Bike24. You should probably be able to find a basic used bike for 110 euro. Studded tires aren't strictly necessary for winter riding, but ...


2

My winter commute tends to be in a well protected velomobile, so I often ride in a light pullover and jeans, socks, and my cycling shoes - and no other layers - in near-freezing temperatures. The inside of the velomobile cabin warms up nicely after the first kilometer.


2

You should be concerned yes, because wet feet are not happy feet. However, this is something your shoe manufacturer should have taken care of. I have owned Specialized and Lake brands of waterproof shoes. I have not ever had problems with water entering through the cleat holes of either (I have owned A LOT of Lake boots). However, that doesn't mean your ...


2

The LED group needs to be waterproof anyways, and it needs to withstand dirt that's thrown at it from the tire at quite some speed. Snow won't penetrate any further than water. Also, since the fender looks very plastic to me, it won't be attacked by the salt that your city may have used to clear the roads. As such, I believe that your LED should be perfectly ...


1

If you are going to ride main streets, you should not worry about the tires. At least in Warsaw most streets are salted such strongly, that they are white from salt, dry and clean. -10 is not a problem for "summer" bicycle tire on dry road. But if there are bicycle paths, even along those neatly cleaned streets, keep in mind that it may be icy and slippery ...


1

If you do a google image search of "sweden january bicycling" you do get images of people bicycling even in the middle of winter. The roads are icy and snowy. A couple of thoughts: Tricycles are more stable than bicycles Studded tires are a must for icy roads, but not if they are well salted. You could wait to get them until it's clear to you that you ...


1

I do not know what you mean by "on budget". Commuting 25+km one way throughout the year, I stopped experimenting with e.g. low tire pressure on otherwise unmodified bikes, or using cheap bikes during winter. Considering the (economic & health) risk you take with minimum modified, on budget bikes, I recommend to switch to public (or other means of) ...


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