Correct - your replacement rim MUST HAVE
The same number of spoke holes
The same Effective Rim Diameter (ie the surface where the spoke head rests on)
A suitable rim brake track if your bike has rim brakes
There is no need to have the same brand or style or width of rim, as long as the critical points are met. OPTIONAL thoughts:
Similar visual design, so ...
Yes, you basically just need another rim of the same ERD.
If it was an offset/asymmetrical rim, in theory that could throw it off and leave you with some spokes too long or too short, but it usually wouldn't make enough difference.
Looking way back in time, the "handedness" (offset orientation of the spoke holes adjacent to the valve) of rims didn'...
Looks like the strong point of the dual wheel drive motorcycle is very high climbing angle, as high as 60 degrees. Hence dual drive mountain bike should have a good potential for a very steep climbing. Ok you can also pull a bear with this bike but unlikely to happen very often.
But I think human cannot sustain the necessary power for more than few seconds. ...
That would effectively give you an all-wheel-drive bicycle with torque force halved on each of them. While both wheels have road contact, you do not loose anything except for the extra parts' weight. But the problem is bicycles don't have a differential device. Meaning your wheels will likely get different torque and angular speed, meaning you will waste ...
However, would there be any potential benefits if, somehow, both wheels were connected to the crankset so that the input power could be shared between the wheels?
There would be some benefits but more drawbacks.
For example, currently on bikes rear tire is the one to wear fastest. This suggests a tire replacement schedule where the new tire is installed to ...
Many two wheel drive mountain bikes exist. Here's one article advertising a new one:
There’s been no shortage of attempts to build a workable two wheel
drive bicycle over the years, but this latest effort from Double of
Japan looks like one of the most compelling yet.
They do ...
As long as you can transmit the force you want to the terrain through one wheel, there is no advantage to driving the second one. As a road biker, I have no problem here. I cannot generate enough torque to break the rear wheel free, so it wouldn't help me at all to drive both wheels. The reason off-road drivers want four wheel drive is that one or both ...
As anyone can easily conclude, having a driving front wheel on a traditional bicycle would be mechanically more complex than achieving the same result with the rear wheel. The front wheel is primarily used for steering, that is it rotates around a vertical (almost) axle. Relegating the steering to somewhere else (i.e. to the back wheel) is not an option as ...
While I'm aware of the fact the link-only answers are frowned upon in this community, I'd just leave this here. I'm not too sure, but I guess you might as well be able to buy one if you so wish.
There have been front drive designs, but all variations I've seen are either impractical, structurally inferior, or both. There is no real benefit to having both wheels deliver power, and that would add a gigantic amount of weight and likely be quite problematic. Imagine needing two separate drive trains that involve separate chains, cassettes, derailleurs, ...
I have sometimes made the mistake of not tightening the locknuts enough, causing the rotation of bearings to drag the cone, tightening it enough for the bearing to bind.
The solution is to properly tighten the locknuts.
I'v been also in the situation of not having the right tools to remove the freewheel, which makes it more difficult.
What I've done to ...
Perhaps I have put in too many/too few ball bearings? ... Should they sit snug, some slightly above the others, or all on same level with slight gaps?
All the balls have to touch both the cup and cone surfaces and therefore should not overlap. If the balls are overlapped they will bind up as the axle rotates.
Did you use a guide to rebuild the hub? Have a ...
Smaller is faster? yes with limited parameter or ideal calculation. There is complex calculation in the real 700c vs smaller faster things. For example the energy stored in a rotating weight is not gone, once it is rotating at certain constant speed all you need is dealing with frictions that mainly coming from wheel-road contact, bearings and the wind.
The logo is from a Carrera (Halfords) bike, so the wheel will have been on a Carrera originally.
You can google the Carrera logo and see that the C is styled in the same way on their full logo.
The 29 is simply referring to the wheel size, a mtb '29er' which has the same ETRTO rim diameter as a typical road/gravel bike, though widths can vary.
You're likely experiencing speed wobble/death wobble:
Wobble, shimmy, tank-slapper, speed wobble, and even death wobble are all words and phrases used to describe a quick (4–10 Hz) oscillation of primarily just the steerable wheel(s) of a vehicle. Initially, the rest of the vehicle remains mostly unaffected, until translated into a vehicle yaw oscillation ...
Maybe it has something to do with momentum. Imagine the wheels like a fly wheel in a car. The larger the wheel, the more momentum it has, so maybe once you get the large wheel turning, it is easier to keep it going at high speed.
This looks mighty familiar. I've been having similar problems removing the freehub from my 2014 Boardman CX Comp.
In the end, I got it off with a Park Tool 11mm hex wrench. It was long enough to go all the way though which meant I could use a bit more leverage from an 11mm socket ratchet on the other end to free it.
Don't try and use an 11mm socket as they ...
Other terms i've seen used, on this very website, in addition to the accepted answer, are
tadpole trike hub
Some trailers support a normal axle on two sides, others mount the wheel off one side with a stub axle (a one sided axle).
Scott Genius, Ransom and Gambler are designed to be used with either 29" or 27.5" wheels.
ONE FRAME TWO WHEEL SIZES
With our mountain bikes, we try to achieve ultimate versatility. These
specific models can switch from 27.5" to 29" or from 24" to 26" wheels
with nothing more than the flip of a chip. No need to change the fork,
27.5x2.8 and 29x2.4 have approximately the same outside diameter of the inflated tire. Same with 27.5x3 and 29x2.5-6ish. All 27+ bikes can run 29; it's implicit whether they're marketed as such or not, although many are. In the other direction, bikes presented as native 29, there may not be enough side clearance for a 27+. Older 29ers would typically not ...
You could buy something like ACF-50. It isn't cheap, but if you put some on your bike every year or so with a cloth, it gets into the metal and helps protect it and one can should last quite a while.
Put it on your bike after you have washed and dried it.
By the way, please don't put oil, WD-40 or anything like this near your brakes - especially if you have ...
The rust shown is purely cosmetic.
Rust removal / Cleaning needs to be done with care. Even with the rubber seal, theres a chance of getting contamination into the bearings. I would use a small wire brush and gently take the worst of off, then spray the surfaces with WD40, a silicon spray or other water repealant/lube spray. Not too much as you don't want ...
Presumably you have purchased an eBike kit with a in-wheel motor, so you have a wheel but you don't know what size the rim is. What did the kit specifications say about the wheel? Is there a marking on the rim?
An approximately 20mm wide rim is wide enough for mountain bike tires up to 60mm / 2.25 inches in width.
The bicycle wheel diameters in common use ...