Noticeable clicking from crankset or bottom bracket

Question

A few days ago I began hearing a clicking noise coming from the crankset and I can also sense a slight hitch when the right crank is at its upmost position just when it's about to go down.

The interesting thing is that it only happens when pedaling. When i have the bike on the stand I cannot reproduce this no matter how hard I pull and bend the cranks in whatever direction.

I have already taken the cranks off and on again and re-tightened them but without any change. I am afraid that it could be the bottom bracket itself. Unfortunately I don't have the tools to tighten it or take it off.

I have already checked this page, but could only so far to get the cranks checked: http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom

The bottom bracket is a Truvativ model.

The chainring is a Thimano model and has only one chainring (nexus hub shift in the back).

Is there anything else I could do or check for?

edit: I think I've tracked it down to be the bottom bracket. If I have the cranks at a certain position and bend them inwards, the clicking is quite noticeable even when not pedaling.

Answer 1

I've had a similar clicking experience. Not really varying under different load, nor at a certain position of crank arms. Everyone I asked said to me it was the ball bearings in the bottom bracket. I pulled the BB out, spinned it in my hands, heard all sort of creaking sounds coming out of it - as if it was full of sand. Bought the new one, installed it: et voilà, no clicking.

Bottom bracket was two years old with about 4000 km on it (FSA if I'm not mistaken).

Answer 2

There are multiple components that can contribute to a clicking or grinding sound in your drive train in addition to the bottom bracket, including the chain, the pedals, the derailleur and the rear hub. That said, the symptoms you describe seem to indicate a problem with the pedal bearings or the bottom bracket.

Here are my steps for troubleshooting the bottom bracket:

1. Pull your cranks laterally. Do they move?
2. Remove the chain from the chainrings and give your cranks a good spin; listen for any unusual grinding noise or little clicks.
3. Hold the down tube or seat tube while spinning the crank and see if you can feel grinding or vibration through the frame.

Any of those indicate that you need to service or replace your bottom bracket. That is not a particularly hard task, and if you have been removing or tightening the cranks you likely only need one or two special tools that you may not have. Replacing or repairing bottom brackets is a common task, so it may be worth it to you to pick those tools up. Here are some bottom bracket service instructions:

Cartridge Type Bottom Bracket Service

Cup and Cone Bottom Bracket Service

Answer 3

The clicking, only under load and always at the same point of the stroke, can be due to:

1. A bad pedal. I've had this a couple of times.
2. The crank arm slipping on the crank. Generally if you've been riding it this way for more than 100 miles or so the crank arm (and possibly the crank) will have been permanently damaged, but tightening the fixing bolt may work, and I've always wondered if one couldn't use a shim (cut from a pop can) to "save" a worn arm in this situation.
3. The BB cartridge is shifting inside the housing, because the cups are not tight enough. This problem is annoying but probably not a structural issue, though eventually the cups could wear to the point that it gets worse.
4. A loose chainring.
5. Something somewhere else on the bike that simply clicks as the frame flexes.

Answer 4

The clicking could be coming from where the pedal joins the crank-arm (with the noise sounding as pressure is placed on the pedal at the top of the stroke). I've had this before, tightened the pedal slightly and no more clicking.

Similarly, I was never able to generate the correct forces to make it click unless I was on the bike riding

Answer 5

I recently spent a week trying to figure out where my creaking noise was coming from. I could feel as well as hear it and I was convinced it was coming from the drive train (same rhythm as pedal stroke). After tightening crank bolts, removing cranks, cleaning and greasing and doing the same with the pedals, oiling the chain adjusting both derailleurs. I finally realised that the noise was quieter when I stood up. Checked the seat post clamp only to find that it wasn't very tight. Nipped it up and went out to test it.....silent, only the noise of the tyres can be heard now. Mint.

Answer 6

I had a similar noise coming from what I thought was the cranks or the chainset. After taking it all apart, re-greasing it all and also replacing the bottom bracket the noise persisted to my frustration. It turns out that although tight enough to hold the wheel in place, the rear quick release was not tight enough. Hey presto, once I tightened the QR the noise was gone! It's amazing how hard it is to identify where the noise/clicking is coming from when you're in motion. Good luck to anyone else who has a similar problem!

Answer 7

If the bb is similar to the hollowtech 2 from Shimano (I know you said it is truvativ but perhaps they have a similar design), these do tend to develop a squeak / click after a while, and they are cartridge so you need to replace them.

There is a certain torque required on bottom bracket itself into the frame and also on the crank bolt (if it is solid axel type).

Other things that can make a deceptively similar noise:

• chainring bolts
• saddle rails
• seatpost clamp

potentially also from

• pedal bearings

make sure you check regularly that everything is tightened (but not overtight) and support your local bike shop by taking your bike there for a service if you don't have the tools / time to do it yourself.

Answer 8

I have had the same noise and discovered the problem and here is the solution. The left crank arm does NOT fit perfectly in the axle and the axle does not on the bearing. To have a perfect fit I put same plastic pieces between the bearing and the axle. 5 pieces to be precise. 3mm pieces of zipp tie. Push them once the the left arm is in place before the washer whit the star hole. The axle has 10 holes. put 5 of those plastic pieces. This puts pressure between every cracking part and the sound has disappeared.