Screenshot of the specs of a 2019 Norco Fluid FS is below. The Fluid does, in fact, require an Integrated type headset (IS). This is a headset where the frame manufacturer machines or otherwise integrates the bearing cups directly into the frame's head tube. This means that there are no separate cups that require pressing into the frame. An Integrated Headset comes with crown race, lower sealed cartridge bearing, upper sealed cartridge bearing, split ring centering sleeve, perhaps some slim shims, and then the top cap assembly that has seals, top cover and cap with its bolt that goes into the star nut to preload the system. The Standardized Headset Identification System (SHIS) shorthand for your headset is IS42/28.6 | IS52/40 as noted in the screenshot.
My experience with integrated headsets and cartridge bearings here in general is that they can take quite a bit more preload than loose ball (or open, caged bearings). So you will notice the top cap bolt getting pretty tight. In my opinion, it can get too tight without the steering binding up. This situation then can cause premature or uneven wear of the cartridge bearing and even the integrated cups in the head tube. As these are a part of the frame, excess wear here can end the life of the frame. So, while the cartridge bearing can expand the window where the preload is tight enough to remove play and the point where steering is bound, it's still important to stop preloading at a point close to where play is just removed. There is a bit of art to it yet-- or perhaps better to describe it as need to experiment just where the preload should stop. My bikes with cartridge bearing headsets have just a hair of play felt only at the top. You don't want to feel it riding and it should not be enough to hear any movement. So what I do is tighten the bolt and remove the obvious play and as I reach the point where I'm wondering if it's enough (as I noted, one can still feel a bit of wiggle at the top. You should not feel it at the fork), I see if the wiggle changes with another half to 3/4 rotation of the bolt. If it doesn't change--neither binds nor disappears, I know I'm done. I'm anal enough that I'll back it off to where obvious movement starts, noting how much I've gone and then preload again to where play disappears and see how it compares to the first time.
A final note regarding the cartridge bearings is that they are serviceable. One can carefully remove the seal on the non-tapered side of the bearing (the green ring in your top photo is a seal, but the one on the other side of the bearing is the one to remove), exposing the balls. Flush and brush old grease and dirt out of the inside and repack with new grease if inspection doesn't reveal any abnormalities. Replace the seal making sure the inner and outer lips are tucked into their spots in the metal. One can also obtain just a new cartridge bearing. Oftentimes just the lower bearing as it faces the elements to a larger degree. Stamped or laser etched onto the outside circumference of the bearing are the pertinent numbers (diameter, thickness, angles) to obtain a like replacement.
