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This tells you nothing of the number of teeth that are actually used on the gears. One a bike, we express the gearing in terms of teeth front and rear, eg 39/13. Not the number of rotations. …

This is called a "cable stop." On most bikes with derailleurs, it is integral to the frame (welded, brazed, bonded, or riveted on). On your bike, it is part of the hub assembly. There are clamp-on c …

To add to Nathan's correct answer, the concept at work here is mechanical advantage. Different gear ratios offer different mechanical advantages, and let you divide or multiply your torque to suit dif …

You might want different gears, but probably not fewer. Shorter crankarms give you less mechanical advantage—they're functionally equivalent to being in a higher gear. … If the denominator is smaller, the quotient is bigger, so for a given set of gears, the net gain ratio would be higher. For that reason, you'd probably want a proportionately lower gear range. …

You can't just move all the chainrings down a notch and add a bigger one: they'll interfere with the chainstay, which makes this impossible, and it would also be difficult to get the shifting right. A …

I have no idea what gear 0 or -1 would be. Assuming your shifters have a ratcheting mechanism in them, and assuming there's grease in there, the grease may have gotten stickier in the cold, and the ra …

There are no gears ramped for this kind of scenario, and indeed, it would probably be impossible to ramp the gears for it. … Hub gears already solve the problem of a small number of widely spaced gears. It's not clear what is to be gained by trying to force derailleur gears to do this too. …

Atomic Zombie is a website with a lot of DIY bike designs, including this FWD recumbent, which may give you some ideas. There are a few FWD recumbents you can buy off the peg, including the Cruzbike a …

There are a couple of parameters you need to pay attention to: The rear derailleur's wrap capacity (how much chain it can wrap up) The biggest gear the rear derailleur can fit under. With your cur …

Option 2 might work, but only by coincidence. You'll probably need to tweak the barrel adjuster on your 11-speed every time you change your bike between trainer and wheel. And of course, being in erg …

You'll need more than just a new derailleur. You will need a new rear hub (effectively, this probably means a new rear wheel), a new chain, a new cassette, and a new shifter. Possibly a new crankset. …

When you approach a stop, downshift two gears in back so you can take off with better acceleration. … this avoids a situation called cross-chaining, going big-big or small-small, which is less efficient and not good for the chain), shift down to the 34t chainring in front and shift up two gears in back …

In order to use our limited power efficiently and keep our cadence in a useful range, we need to be able to vary our mechanical advantage, which is what gears do. … Conversely, when riding with a tailwind or down a hill, bigger gears let you ride faster than your maximum cadence would otherwise allow. …

Jahaziel is correct about the cable housing. If you're talking about the inner cable, it needs to be pre-stretched to index correctly. I'd be a little surprised if you could buy a derailleur cable tha …

One of my bikes has a 2×11 with 46/30 in front and 11-32 in back: I never shift out of the big ring, and very rarely use the biggest or smallest gears in back, riding on terrain with rolling hills, to … In any case, when you're riding fast, having closely and evenly spaced gears is more important than having one special gear for the jump to lightspeed. …