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In 1x (single chainrings) transmission, only the inside width matters, since the chainring is not meant to derail. … Personal example: I'm running a 10-speed chain on 9-speed chainring, it works perfectly. …

I had a quick look on the specs of the bike: the specs don't give any useful info to choose a new chainring, so I would assume it cannot be changed (except by replacing the whole crankset). the bottom …

clearance to do that (the chainring will be bigger and closer to the frame). … In the main brands, those cassettes are also only 12 speed, so you'll need to chainring your derailleur and shifter as well. …

The interesting part is on the other side, when derailing: they guide the chain when going from the small chainring to the big one. 2x/3x systems very often have guides like this. …

Another reason is that the chain length can change: if your bike has for example a 2x with 36/22 chainring in the front and an 11/36 cassette, you will need a longer chain if you upgrade to a 32T chainring …

I asked in a shop: the mechanics told me that indeed, changing a chainring requires to update some setting on the motor, but they can do it. …

cage to move to the small chainring), so you have more margin to play with the stops and tension. … But in the case of 3x, it's much harder, as the cage needs to be correctly positioned for each chainring. …

You'll need to change the bottom bracket and the possibly the front derailleur as well (the shape of the cage depends on the chainring sizes) — take into account that road chainrings are bigger and closer …

So, using a 10-speed chain on an 11-speed chainring shouldn't be an issue. …

If you are willing to give up the small chainring and the front derailleur (assuming that you currently have a 2x - Shimano doesn't have a 46T 1x), an alternative would be to convert the bike to 1x (GRX … cranks can do both), some 3rd party manufacturers are selling larger 1x rings for GRX cranks (Wolftooth goes up to 52T - again, your frame needs to be able to clear that size of chainring). …

, there's another technical solution that I give for reference (because it's not doable at low cost), which is to approach the problem from the cassette side: you can achieve the same result as a big chainring … But given your current setup and the current offering on the market, it will involve replacing the rear wheel, the cassette, the rear derailleur and its shifter for sure, and possibly the chainring. …

To answer this question more accurately, based on Shimano's data. It should be noted that in the meantime, Shimano has announced the CUES range - new range for entry level bikes, that is based on Link …

The only cases I've seen where they are not removable was on trekking e-bikes, where they were soldered on the chainring (and not Shimano) - in metal then, not platic. …