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I replaced the 8 speed cassette (Shimano) on an old wheel with a 9 speed cassette (ZTTO).

However, the lockrings seem to be different sizes, in 2 ways:

  • The old 8 speed lockring had a shorter threaded part - ie. you would have to screw it in less to be all the way in, than the 9 speed lockring
  • The old 8 speed lockring had a larger face plate, which on the 9 speed cassette actually blocks some of the teeth when the chain is on the 11 cog.

If I use the new lockring that came with the 9 speed cassette, the cassette is loose, because the longer threaded part means the lockring doesn't screw in far enough for the face plate to make contact with the cassette.

But if I use the old lockring that was on the wheel until now, I can't shift to the 11, since that's blocked by the larger faceplate.

What should I do here? Are there different lockrings I could buy? Or should I put a spacer behind the cassette, to push it further out and let me use the lockring with the longer threaded part?

Images (red is the new one):

Height comparison

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enter image description here

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    I think the solution is going to be a thin spacer in this case, though I've encountered similar situations where using a "wrong" lockring was the only solution (9 speed Shimano hub and cheap cassette, old 8-speed lockring; an even nastier mix or 7 & 8 speed parts on an old hybrid). But something so large in diameter to affect the 11T cog seems surprising. Photos and dimensions would be good
    – Chris H
    Commented Aug 14 at 13:57
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    @ChrisH added some images to the post.
    – Hannes Hertach
    Commented Aug 14 at 17:46
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    Do you think a standard 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette would work?
    – Hannes Hertach
    Commented Aug 14 at 17:49
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    A spacer between cassette and lockring ? That risks a poor engagement between the ridged bits. If you have access to a lathe anywhere, I'd be trimming one of them down. Using a grinder or file might work too, but wouldn't be as pretty.
    – Criggie ♦
    Commented Aug 14 at 18:11
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    @Criggie no, I was thinking behind the cassette. That should push the cassette further from the center of the hub and more towards the faceplate of the lock ring, even if it is not fully screwed in. Only concern is that the chain may be getting too close to the frame then.
    – Hannes Hertach
    Commented Aug 14 at 19:26

1 Answer 1

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The original is a lockring for a cassette with a 12 tooth small cog. The replacement is for an 11 tooth small cog.

You need an 11 tooth Shimano lockring. Ask your LBS if they have an old one, or order one. (This is an affiliate link.)

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  • Thanks. What about the height (ie. length of the threads, visible in my first photo) - I guess it needs to be the way the original 12 tooth ring was?
    – Hannes Hertach
    Commented Oct 7 at 7:19
  • As the original was a Shimano cassette, the 11t Shimano lockring should have similar depth. The length of the threads doesn't typically matter, but if the freehub body on your wheel is not threaded deeply enough to accept a deeper thread, then yes, you will need the shorter thread.
    – zenbike
    Commented Oct 28 at 0:06

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