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7

Looks like what is known as an 'adjustable cup and cone' bottom bracket. That means the bracket can be disassembled, and the axle and ball bearings will come out; also the clearance between the cups and cones (the surfaces the ball bearings run on) can be adjusted. This differs from a 'cartridge' unit that is pressed together and cannot be disassembled or ...


7

OK, I eventually worked out the easier way. The locknut has a hole in the end which, in addition to taking the skewer when fitted, has a hex socket for a 5mm allen key. Turn the hex/allen key anti-clockwise relative to the cone spanner to undo.


4

Would a beam style wrench be just as good, or more suitable than a click-type? Definitely not. With a beam-style wrench you have to accurately observe where the pointer is on the scale. That means you have to be looking straight-on at the scale. Bicycle bolts are at all angle and orientations, which means looking at the scale will be very awkward.


3

I have only a 2-24 Nm click type torque wrench and coincidentally the main job I typically use it for is the pinch bolts on cranks, but also when attaching carbon parts like bars, less frequently. The 12-14 Nm required for Shimano pinch bolts is right in the middle of the tool's range and that gives me a warm feeling inside. Of course carbon parts require ...


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