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27

You shouldn't ride on a wheel with broken spokes more than necessary, especially if its a low spoke count wheel (like a 16 spoke wheel). The load gets unbalanced with respect to the other spokes. Since this is a front wheel, I wouldn't risk riding it. If something does happen to the wheel (such as failure) its far more serious than if it happened to the ...


27

Unfortunately, most bikes are only rated to 300lbs or less. However, if this is a new bike, you should take it back to the shop and get them to fix it. They can't claim they didn't know you were a heavy rider when they sold you the bike. You might need to get more substantial wheels with more spokes. Wheels designed for touring bikes might be more ...


25

Spokes bent like that can't take any load (tension), so it would not work. However, bending multiple spokes around each other can produce a feasible wheel with non-straight spokes, like the last photo here. Note that in this particular wheel a single broken spoke will cause multiple others to lose tension, most probably rendering the wheel unrideable.


18

Probably the best source for answering this is Jobst Brandt's The Bicycle Wheel, the definitive text on the wire-spoked wheel and an essential for anyone interested in the art of wheelbuilding. Excerpted from page 68 of the 3rd edition: Spokes in a crossed pattern are usually interlaced at their last crossing before reaching the rim. Spokes coming from ...


15

The short answer is, "Find a dealer you trust." Whether what he told you is right or wrong, you clearly believe he is having you on. That will not result in a good relationship, no matter whether he is scamming you, or not. Most likely, he is either poorly educated on the cause of the spokes breaking, and is having difficulty explaining something to you ...


15

Spokes break for the same reason any other material does: they are subject to stresses they are unable to withstand. In the case of a wheel, it can be overloaded by rider weight, cargo, or forceful impacts. Additionally, the presence of loose spokes results in other, properly tensioned spokes bearing more of the wheel's load. Spokes are under tension, so ...


15

To me, it looks like whoever (or whatever, as it was likely machine built) used the wrong size tooling to hold and screw the spoke nipples as the wheel was built. Not a rim manufacturing defect but a wheel building defect. If it's still under warranty, I'd get the wheel replaced. Any cracks are bad cracks and could propagate. If it's not under warranty, I ...


14

Lower spoke numbers are primarily of interest to weight weenies (though for a given price, a lower spoke wheel will probably use a heavier rim offsetting the spoke reduction weight savings). As usual, Sheldon is some good reading. There is also a whole book on how to build wheels well and design decisions, by Jobst Brandt, called "The Bicycle Wheel". What ...


13

Spoke washers are used at the hub end, between the flared out cap and the hub itself. The intention is to take up extra length between the bend and the end, to help prevent the spoke from breaking. Common use is on hubs with thin flanges (for lightweight or because they're cheap) and on heavier loaded bikes to spread the load. Notice how the lower spoke ...


12

I can't comment on doing a whole wheel this way, but I have seen wheel repairs done this way while touring. It did not work, I suspect for the reason that Jobst points out. The nipples unwound after a few days (at about 100km/day with perhaps 100kg load). Doing the spokes up tighter just broke spokes and stripped nipples. The mutual tensioning effect is IMO ...


12

Check the spokes - its likely one or more has broken ("I felt a shock, like a snap....".). The ones to check are ones that got from the rim, where the rubbing is occurring, to the hub on the opposite side of the rubbing (in your case, the right side of the hub). If these have let go, there is nothing stopping the rim being pulled to the left. It may be ...


11

Here is my 2c from over 10 years experience in a busy shop: I am assuming that it is the spokes are breaking at the hub. On a drive side wheel, that is where they always break. There is a different rare condition, when the spoke nipples are breaking off at the rim. Rims have two sets of holes, one set on the each side. The spokes might be laced to the ...


11

Yes, as the comments pointed out, this is abnormal. I would make the attempt to take the wheel back to the LBS where you bought the bike. The might be able to work with Specialized and get the wheel replaced completely. Once at the LBS, have the mechanic inspect for any external factors (derailleur strikes, etc). If they can't get it replaced, then I would ...


11

A wheel could theoretically be trued by tension alone if you started with a perfectly manufactured rim, hub, spokes and nipples and you were building a perfectly symmetric wheel. The reality is that there are minute differences and that tolerances are not all that tight. Not to mention that ultimately the wheel has to go into a frame that also may not be ...


11

That is poorly built and unacceptable (in my book) as a paid for product. If all of the spokes are protruding some, and several more than others, it means that the wrong length spokes were used. The reasons for this may or may not be the wheelbuilders fault, it's possible that some component of the wheel build had incorrectly listed sizing and the spoke ...


11

I have to say I think this is a myth, for a properly built wheel. Spokes have threaded ends which the nipples screw onto. Like almost all screw threads, they are self-locking. Since the spokes of a properly built wheel are under a high level of tension, there is no "play" in the threads. In addition, any torque would have to overcome the high clamping force ...


11

I completely agree with the accepted answer of @David Richerby from personal experience. As a heavier rider (~22 stone) for many years, I also found with a couple of different bicycles that the rear wheel tended to come out of true, especially when hitting bumps and potholes. My solution was to replace the rear wheel with a touring wheel with more spokes, ...


10

A wheel is only as strong as the tension on the spokes. If the wheel was loose for any significant length of time before you noticed it, the spokes will fatigue very quickly, because they are flexing through a range of motion which is not intended. You are a big guy at 95 Kg, so this type of problem is not unusual (as am I). That means that you need to be ...


10

A well built wheel should go years without needed truing. If you are truing the wheel every 2 months something is wrong with the build. There's no way to know via the internet, but my guess is that it's one of two things. The rim is bent slightly and requires significantly uneven tension in the spokes to get the rim true. There isn't enough tension in ...


10

Usually spokes don’t break because they are too weak but because they have too low or uneven tension. Even tension will distribute the load among several spokes. High enough tension will make sure that spokes are never unloaded completely since spokes should always be under tension. When a spoke is unloaded it can come loose or rub against the hub or other ...


9

Yes, straight pull spokes are technically superior to traditional J-bend spokes. The only reason that J-bend spokes are relatively more popular is because it's cheaper to machine a hub with simple flanges on a lathe. Well-designed straightpull hubs typically cost more. Note that a straight-pull spoke in generally can and should be tensioned higher than ...


9

That depends on how good your ear is. If you can tune a stringed instrument effectively, then tensioning a wheel by ear is very effective. Identical spokes that have the same pitch when plucked should have the same tension within the margin of error for any tensiometer reading. The catch is you need a tensiometer to get the relative tone for the proper kg/f ...


9

A typical spoke has around 8-10 mm of threading on it, and you don't necessarily have to engage all of it with the nipple. So it's not super sensitive to small variations in length. For most folks, too long or two short really doesn't matter as long as it's within about 2 mm, so just round to whichever stock size is closest to ideal. If you go beyond the ...


9

This topic is really poorly understood. Anyone who ever who tells you it's fine to just straight round up or round off when choosing spoke lengths just hasn't been through the disaster scenarios that can be caused by it, or perhaps doesn't remember because the experience is too painful and embarrassing. Always round down unless you can test and measure the ...


8

The best suggestion I can make is to read "The Art of Wheelbuilding, by Gerd Schraner". As for materials: Use aluminum, double walled rims. They are stronger, lighter, and believe it or not easier for a new wheel builder to get true and round than steel rims will be. In addition, steel rims for a road bike will be difficult to come by in new condition. ...


8

This is debatable, but since you asked, here go my cents: A wheel has three "parts": rim, hub and spokes. Spokes have two functions: Sustain the vertical forces on the wheel (weight of the rider, landing, etc.); Transmit torque while accelerating (rear wheel only) and braking; Any properly laced wheel will do it, but there are many ways to design the ...


8

If you haven't hit anything and you haven't parked your bike on a busy bike rack (other tires getting accidentally rammed into your spokes), the most likely culprit is a nipple vibrating loose. You can see if this is a likely possibility fairly easily...one, maybe two, of your spokes will be noticeably loose...less tension then the surrounding spokes (...


8

I've heard before that a smaller wheel is actually stronger, and this site states the following. Because a 26-inch wheel has a smaller circumference than a larger 700c wheel, the rim is structurally stronger and resists deformation from impact. Wheels that are 26 inches excelled at handling hard drop-offs and even crashes without losing their true. The ...


8

There are two things I generally do to help eliminate most of the twist. When tightening spokes, get in the habit of slightly overturning and then turning back. (i.e. If I want to tighten a spoke 1/2 turn, I'll do 3/4 and 1/4 back. ) At regular intervals once the wheel is "close", take the wheel out of the stand and place the wheel vertically on a soft ...


8

Simple idea - turn the wheel over in the truing stand. The low side of the rim should move to the other side. If the Right-hand side is still low after flipping, your gauge is out and needs calibrating.


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